Common
Questions
About Our Scans
Should
I scan my image only to the file size I need for my specific
project, or should I scan to the highest resolution possible?
Read about West Coast
Imaging's scan once for many purposes philosophy.
Why do I need to use a drum scanner?
Can't I just use a flatbed or desktop scanner?
Compare and see. If you are happy with what your flatbed or film
scanner gives you, then use it. We find that we are only happy
with the quality our Tango gives
us. It resolves more detail, and gives cleaner and more accurate
color. It makes the process of printing easier and better. In every
art, the quality of your raw materials affects the quality of the
final piece. In digital imaging, the scan is the raw material.
We choose to start with the best available.
What's so great about the Tango™ Drum Scanner?
It truly resolves up to 10,780 dpi--capturing every single detail
in your film. The software that drives the scanner allows for the
cleanest, most accurate scan available from your piece of film.
Many companies offer drum scans from less expensive scanners--there
is a visible difference (do a comparison test between the Tango™
and another drum scanner to view for yourself). If you start off
with a less-than-superior scan, you will sacrifice the integrity
of your digital image. The other advantage to using our Tango™
is that we have a vast amount of experience making digital fine
art photographs. From the scan to the finished image--we know what
you need for an excellent print.
Why
do you recommend scanning 35mm to 200MB 16-bit RGB?
Scanning a 35mm frame at 5000dpi in RGB creates a 200MB 16-bit file. At 5000 dpi,
we've reached the point of diminishing returns...you have to scan
much larger to pull even small amounts of additional detail from
the film. The exceptions are images captured with X-pan cameras,
Zeiss lenses and Leica lenses.
Should
I scan my larger format film to 400MB 16-bit RGB or 600MB 16-bit RGB?
It's up to you. With a 400MB 16-bit RGB scan you can make a 30x40 print at
200dpi. You can also make a duplicate transparency using a digital
film recorder.
A
600MB 16-bit RGB scan allows you to print a 30x40 print at 300dpi or a 40x50
at 200 dpi.
Can
you FTP scans to me?
We can do better than that! Our online services allow you to upload
files to us, and download scans, using your web browser - no FTP
programs necessary. Sign
up for a free account today. There is a $15 online delivery charge for each order delivered online.
I
only need one image scanned, but the image is on a strip of film.
Do I need to cut out the individual frame, or should I send the
entire strip?
Yes, please trim out the individual frame we need to scan. It is
easier and less clumsy to mount, which reduces the chance of damaging
your film.
If
we receive a strip of film, we will contact you to see if we
can trim out the individual frame you need us to scan.
If
you DO NOT want to cut the film, we can mount the entire strip on
our drum. Since this requires more work and time, we charge $10
per strip of 3 images mounted (larger strips will be billed at a
higher rate), and turnaround will be longer.
How
do Tango scans compare to scans from other scanners?
In a world where you can buy scanners for a few thousand dollars,
we decided to spend $70,000 on our Tango because it delivers THE
BEST scans we've ever seen. Making an excellent print requires an
excellent scan. We weren't willing to compromise on this critical
part of the process.
Why
does the scan not look exactly like my slide, or my print from my
negative?
When we make scan decisions, our first goal is to make a scan that
will make an excellent print. We scan images to RETAIN detail and
information, and NOT necessarily to match your film because this
makes the very best prints.
Is
a smaller scan of lesser quality?
No. It's simply scanned at a lower resolution, so you won't be able
to print it as large as you could print a bigger scan.
If
a 6x7 and a 4x5 piece of film both generate a 600MB 16-bit RGB scan, then they
should make a 30x40 print with the same amount of detail and quality,
right? Film size doesn't matter?
Let's
say you took a picture of Yosemite Valley with your 6x7 camera,
and the same image with your 4x5. On your 6x7 film, the size of
Yosemite Fall would be maybe 1.3cm tall. On your 4x5 film, Bridalveil
Fall would be 2.35cm tall. That means it's nearly twice as large
on the film. There is a lot more information and detail recorded
on the 4x5 film, simply because there is more space to record it.
The scanner "sees" this additional information, as because
of that, it makes a sharper scan from the 4x5 with more resolution. View an illustration
of this example.
Why do my scans look pixilated in some areas?
If you are not used to looking at digital files, you can mistake
individual pieces of grain for pixels. When you scan an image, the
grain on your film looks very different than when you view it on
a light table because of the magnification (unless you regularly
view your film under a microscope!) What looks like an even blue
sky actually has many different colors and densities of grain making
up what the eye perceives as blue. You especially notice this phenomenon
in deep shadows and large dark areas. It's completely normal, since
the scanner is actually capturing the subtle nuances of your film!
How
big can I print from a 100/200/300 mb scan?
Here is a chart with general guidelines of how large you can
print an image at 200dpi and 300dpi.
| |
Maximum
Print Size at 200dpi |
Maximum
Print Size at 300dpi |
| 200MB
16-bit RGB Scan |
24x36 |
18x22 |
| 400MB
16-bit RGB Scan |
40x44 |
24x32 |
| 600MB
16-bit RGB Scan |
44x60 |
30x40 |
I
have a very dark slide. Will a good scan be able to lighten it?
The best scans come from properly exposed film. If your film
is underexposed in highlights and shadows, we can lighten it. But
if your shadows are dark and heavy because the brightness range
of the scene exceeded the latitude of the film, there is less we
can do because you need to make local changes that can't be made
on scanner. You have much more local control in lightening or darkening
a transparency by working on the scan in Photoshop.
If you have an underexposed image, we'll do our best to capture
as much shadow detail as possible--but if your shadows are completely
black, we can't capture detail that isn't there. If you are trying
to "save" an image that it extremely difficult, there
are special techniques we can use on scanner, but you will have
to tell us ahead of time to use them. We generally don't use these
techniques unless you ask because they can make your files more
difficult to print.
I've
heard it is much more difficult to get a high-quality scan from
color negative film than chromes. Is this absolutely true ? Is there a
way to expose film to optimize it for scanning? I prefer to continue
shooting negative film because of its contrast ratio and exposure
latitude. As I contemplate having my images scanned, I'd like to
know the best solution for future film, and the projects I'm embarking
upon.
Chromes scan more easily than negs for a number of reasons, not
the least of which is that it is a positive, and we have an accurate
reference to what it should look like. With a negative we have no
such reference. Also, the grain structure of chromes holds up much
better, and gives a sharper file than negs.
The wider latitude of negs is part of the problem, as well. Compressing
that range into a print flattens contrast and destroys local contrast...things
that make a print sparkle. On the other hand, using chromes in
flat light stretches out the contrast range and makes nice local
contrast happen automatically.
We
have scanned thousands of chromes and negs from beginners to
professionals with decades of experience. In looking at what works, we have found
that negs from studio photographers who light flat for chrome,
make the best scans....so the very reason you want to use neg
is in direct opposition to creating the type of lighting conditions
and neg that scans well.
Now this doesn't mean that the chrome is always better, but with a chrome, what you see is what you get, and we can always make a good scan from a good chrome. With NEgatives there is a little bit more variability and uncertainty. The type of neg film really doesn't matter
very much.
You will choose what tools and workflow will work best for you
and your work. I don't know the type of subject matter you photograph,
but the look you see in Outdoor Photographer of landscapes is a
direct function of using chrome film or digital cameras in those early morning and
late evening light with a latitude, color, and contrast that create those looks. If there
was an easier way to obtain that look, we'd all be doing it!
Is
it possible to drum scan APS negatives? Does this require removal
from the cassette?
Yes! The cassette must be opened, and the frame cut out. We have
scanned some, and we were very surprised by the quality it held.
Can
you scan small film like Minox, 16mm motion picture frames, or Kodak Disc Film?
Yes! It has to be cut from the disc. We have scanned some, and we
were very surprised by the quality it held for a 20-year-old emulsion
that's so small--but we don't see it making a comeback anytime soon. Even James Bond has abandoned his trusty Minox and gone digital!
What
is the highest resolution scan you could get from the 24mm
APS image?
We can scan up to 10780 dpi which will give you a 400mb 16 bit RGB file if we scan the
whole frame. If you can give us the crop, we can crop on scanner. At this resolution
you will have pulled everything possible out of the film.
Unfortunately, the lenses on most APS cameras are not very good,
and they don’t have a lot of real resolution on the film.
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