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by
Rich Seiling
Even
though most photographs are made in color, B&W prints still have
a beauty and strength that cannot be denied. By removing color, you gain
a level of abstraction that focuses your attention on light and form.
This allows you to speak with a different voice, and to communicate ideas
that can't be conveyed the same way in color.
In
the past, being a B&W photographer almost required having a darkroom
and learning the process yourself. Access to an adequate darkroom has
hindered many photographers I know, and led them away from B&W. But
the rules have changed. While nothing will ever look the same as a darkroom
print on Silver Gelatin Fiber Paper, the new digital options are neither
better nor worse--they are simply different.
There
are many routes to making a B&W photograph. I've exposed many photographs
with color film, then later realized my mind was seeing in B&W. Thanks
to digital imaging, I can unlock these photographs and make prints that
express what I felt the moment I exposed the film. A
previous Photoshop Tip by Michael Frye discusses one way to convert
color images to B&W.
Maybe
there is a B&W photograph hiding inside of some of your photographs
as well! You can convert your existing color images to B&W, but what
about making new photographs? Let's look at some of the different materials
you can expose in your camera, when your final objective is a B&W
print.
Digital
Capture
With digital cameras, you can continue to capture your images in color,
then convert them to B&W in Photoshop. If you already use a digital
camera, this is a straightforward approach that requires no additional
investment. You may also be able to take advantage of infrared capabilities
of your camera for a different expressive approach. How well your digital
camera file will print depends on the size file your camera produces,
as well as how large you want to print the image.
Color
Slide Film
Well exposed color slides can be scanned in color and converted to B&W
with excellent results. The disadvantage in creating new photographs is
that slide film has a limited latitude and a tendency to block up the
shadows. When it works, it works great...but you are limited to capturing
images in “chrome light” in most cases. You can use this to
your advantage in low contrast situations that would go flat on B&W
neg film - the inherent contrast of slide film helps expand the tonal
range.
Color
Negative Film
Color negative film can be scanned and converted to B&W. The biggest
drawback is grain; Color negatives tend to have a strong grain pattern
when scanned. Color negative film does have a wide latitude, but this
is as much of a disadvantage as an advantage, as negatives often tend
to be “flat” in contrast--and adding contrast enhances the
grain pattern. In most cases you are better off shooting B&W neg
film.
B&W
Film for Color Processing
We have seen excellent results with B&W films made to be processed
in standard C-41 chemistry like Kodak’s 400CN and Ilford’s
XP-2 Super - often called chromogenic B&W films. They have much less
grain than standard color negative films, and scan beautifully, producing
wonderful tones. If you use this type of film, you need to use filters
in the field, since it does not produce a “color” image that
can be post processed into B&W in photoshop. Chromogenic B&W films
do not offer the same level of control in processing as traditional B&W
films.
B&W
Negative Films
Traditional B&W films are an excellent choice for digital B&W
printing. A good drum scanner can pull out detail that would be extremely
difficult, or impossible, to achieve in the traditional darkroom, because
it can scan the entire density range of a negative. Traditional zone
system controls can still be used, and allow an immense control over
exposure and development. With careful control, you can hold 13-15 stops
of range on a single sheet of film. Medium and large format film provides
resolution that is either unattainable or unaffordable to most photographers,
at this time, from digital cameras. Good negatives tend to fall right
into place, creating a beautiful print. For typical situations, you should
still try to make a negative that would print well in the darkroom (laziness
is never a virtue!). For extreme lighting circumstances, you can make
a negative with densities optimized for drum scanning (instead of photo
paper), and achieve some amazing effects.
B&W
Slide Films
B&W slide films like Scala and the dr5-chrome process act more like
color slide film than B&W negative films in that they have a limited
latitude, and they need to be exposed very carefully. Because these are
reversal processes, the shadow information is held in the areas of the
film with the highest densities. The more dense an area, the less detail
the scanner can see (compare this with B&W negative films where the
shadows are held in the least dense areas and incredible detail can be
captured). These films work best in the studio with careful lighting to
match the exposure latitude. If you are sold on its unique look, that’s
great, but this process offers little advantage - and many disadvantages
- to the average photographer.
You
should use whatever process produces the results you are seeking. If
your first approach doesn't work, try something else! The exciting
thing is to get out there and see what you have to say in B&W!
Text
and photos ©2005 Rich Seiling, All Rights Reserved. This page may
not be reproduced without the permission of the copyright holder.
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